do’s & don’ts for new asphalt & tar & chip pavement

DO’S & DON’TS FOR NEW ASPHALT & TAR & CHIP PAVEMENT

DO:

KEEP YOUR ASPHALT SEALED

New asphalt should be sealed with a petroleum-based fog seal within the first year of installation, ideally on the day it is installed. The asphalt is then maintained by resealing it every 3–4 years thereafter, depending on sun exposure, weather conditions, and traffic.

Much of the information people hear from other paving contractors—or find online—suggests that new asphalt should not be sealcoated for about one year after installation. That guidance generally applies to cheap, water-based seal coatings commonly used by other paving contractors and driveway seal coaters. These are essentially the same products sold in five-gallon buckets at home improvement centers.

These products function as surface coatings that form a hard shell over the pavement rather than penetrating and sealing the asphalt itself. They are completely different from what we use and are not intended for application on new asphalt.

We use a petroleum-based fog seal (also known as a construction seal) that penetrates the asphalt and adds additional asphalt binder to the surface. This treatment helps protect the asphalt from UV exposure and oxidation, tightens the surface—reducing raveling and early surface wear—and seals surface pores and microscopic cracks to help prevent moisture intrusion.

Fog sealing also helps maintain pavement flexibility longer and improves the overall appearance of the asphalt by creating a uniform, consistent jet-black finish that helps the pavement retain its color for a longer period of time.

We have sealed roughly 70% of the new asphalt surfaces we have installed on the day of installation for several decades, with real-world results showing improved long-term pavement performance. While it is perfectly acceptable to wait up to a full year to seal new asphalt—particularly when managing a budget—when a fog seal is applied on the day of installation, we double the standard structural warranty from one year to two years, reflecting our confidence in the long-term performance benefits.

Below are citations from nationally recognized transportation agencies and pavement engineering authorities—considered definitive sources in the industry—that directly support and reinforce the use of fog seals on new asphalt and for ongoing pavement preservation.

Texas Department of Transportation / Texas Transportation Institute
Seal Coat and Surface Treatment Handbook
DOT engineering handbook
Texas DOT / Texas Transportation Institute
Section: Construction Seal


California Department of Transportation (Caltrans)
Maintenance Technical Advisory Guide (MTAG), Chapter 6
State DOT maintenance technical guide
Caltrans current edition
Section: Fog Seals and Rejuvenating Seals – Construction Seal Use


University of Kansas Transportation Center
Construction Seal Fog Seal Guidance
University transportation engineering course material
KUTC
Section: Construction Seal Fog Seal

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LIMIT HEAVY TRUCK TRAFFIC

Heavy trucks cause significantly more pavement damage than passenger vehicles, even on public roads designed for heavy traffic, which is why they are subject to the Heavy Vehicle Use Tax to help offset that damage.

Private roads and pipe stems are not constructed like public roads and are not paid for with tax dollars. They are privately built and privately maintained. Because of this, private roads are far more vulnerable to damage when heavy trucks use them frequently.

Why extra precautions matter

When heavy truck traffic is not managed on a private road, deterioration happens faster and repairs become necessary much sooner.

Construction traffic: document road conditions before and after work

If heavy construction vehicles will be using a private road, it’s important to document the condition of the road before and after construction. Simple video or photo documentation helps ensure that any damage caused by construction traffic can be clearly identified and addressed by the responsible party.

Limit unnecessary heavy truck traffic

One of the simplest and most effective precautions private road owners can take is to limit unnecessary heavy truck traffic. A common example is trash collection. When a private road or pipe stem is served by multiple trash companies, the road is subjected to multiple heavy truck visits every week

Coordinating and using a single trash collection service can significantly reduce heavy traffic and help extend the usable life of a private road.

Managing heavy vehicle access is one of the most practical steps property owners can take to reduce wear, control costs, and avoid premature repairs on private roads.

BACKFILL YOUR ASPHALT EDGES

Properly backfilling asphalt edges is critical and serves two essential purposes: edge support and improved drainage.

EDGE SUPPORT

To maximize the strength of our asphalt edges, our crews are trained to hand-finish and hand-compact every vertical perimeter edge during installation, making them as strong as possible at the time they are installed. Even when installed correctly, however, the edge remains the weakest part of any paved surface because it is elevated above the surrounding landscaping and has no side support unless it is backfilled.

Without proper support, new asphalt edges can crack and break—often quickly. This is why the edges of public roads typically terminate at a concrete curb or curb-and-gutter system or, at a minimum, are supported by a gravel shoulder. Asphalt edges require lateral support to prevent failure.

For this reason, proper backfilling is required to provide the necessary edge support and long-term performance.

For private paving projects, most property owners use quality topsoil to backfill asphalt edges, which is typically the best option. Soils with high clay content or shrink-swell tendencies should be avoided, as they can bond to the asphalt when wet and then contract as they dry, pulling against the pavement edge and contributing to cracking or movement.

IMPROVED DRAINAGE

In addition to structural support, proper backfilling plays a critical role in controlling how water moves to, across, and away from the pavement at the surface.

Because asphalt is designed to sit slightly elevated above the surrounding ground, water flowing toward the edge can become dammed up and unable to drain until it builds up high enough to flow over the asphalt edge. Over time, water can infiltrate and soften the base, wash out or undercut the base supporting the asphalt, migrate underneath the asphalt, and cause even greater damage during freeze–thaw cycles.

Backfill should be brought up flush with the top of the asphalt edge so the edge remains fully supported and water is managed correctly at the surface.

If the surrounding ground slopes toward the pavement, the soil should be brought up even with the pavement edge and graded so water can sheet-flow harmlessly across the surface instead of running underneath it. If the surrounding ground is generally level or slopes away from the pavement, the soil should be built up to the edge and then tapered down away from the pavement, creating a gentle ramp that directs water away.

Both approaches are acceptable and effective. In both cases, the goal is the same: maintain full edge support while preventing water from getting underneath the asphalt.

VIDEO DEMONSTRATION

The following video demonstrates proper asphalt edge backfilling techniques to help ensure full edge support and proper surface drainage:

MAINTAIN OVERALL PROPERTY DRAINAGE & GRADING

Proper edge backfilling controls how water interacts with the pavement surface, but overall property drainage determines how water is directed and behaves in the areas surrounding the pavement. Water must have a place to drain. While slope and grading are the primary factors that allow water to move away from the pavement, water must also have a clear, unobstructed path to exit the area. If water cannot drain effectively, it may remain in the soil long enough to migrate beneath the pavement and increase moisture levels in the base and subgrade below.

Ground that drains well generally does not present problems under normal conditions. Problems arise when water is delivered to an area faster than it can be removed, such as when site topography concentrates runoff from adjacent or higher areas, intense or prolonged rainfall overwhelms drainage capacity, underlying soils drain poorly, or otherwise adequate drainage paths are obstructed or interrupted.

Depending on the site, overall drainage may rely on proper grading and slope, open surface conveyance such as swales, ditches, and culvert pipes, surface collection systems such as catch basins, box drains, or channel drains, and subsurface drainage systems such as French drains, underdrains, interceptor drains, or underground downspout drains. These features are used to guide water along its intended path and allow it to exit the area. If slope is inadequate, interrupted, or obstructed, or if drainage features are not present, properly sized, maintained, or functioning as intended, water may collect and lead to ground saturation.

When the ground located near the pavement can no longer absorb additional water, excess water can migrate beneath the pavement through the soil, creating harmful subsurface drainage conditions
beneath the pavement. As water enters and saturates the base and subgrade, these supporting materials can lose strength and stability and become more susceptible to movement and deformation.
Freeze–thaw cycles during winter conditions can further aggravate these issues when soils remain saturated, increasing movement and instability beneath the pavement and allowing frost heaving to occur.

The goal is not just to slope water away from the pavement surface, but to ensure water has a continuous, unobstructed path to drain—whether by grading alone or with the help of drainage systems—so it does not collect or migrate beneath the pavement and compromise the base and subgrade supporting the pavement structure, leading to premature pavement failure under vehicle load.

INSPECT YOUR PAVEMENT

You should inspect your pavement in the spring and fall, and after severe weather or heavy vehicle loads.

Pavement is something most people see every day but rarely take the time to examine closely. Taking a few minutes to walk the pavement and look for early signs of cracking, edge damage, drainage issues, or surface wear can help identify problems early. Addressing small issues promptly helps prevent them from developing into larger, more costly structural problems.

VARY PARKING LOCATION ON NEW ASPHALT

During the first few months after installation—especially in hot weather—vary where vehicles are parked on new asphalt.

Parking in the exact same spots every day, particularly with heavier vehicles, can cause slight depressions to form while the pavement is still curing. Shifting tire positions by just a few inches from day to day helps minimize this risk.

SPREAD OUT STATIONARY WEIGHT

Place plywood or other load-spreading pads under trailer jacks, RV jacks, motorcycle kickstands, dumpsters, furniture, or any other item that concentrates weight on a small area of pavement, particularly if it will remain in place for an extended period.
These are known in construction as point loads—situations where heavy weight is concentrated over a very small contact area, which can damage or cause indentations in pavement, especially when it’s new or during hot temperatures. Spreading the load over a larger area with plywood or load-spreading pads greatly reduces the risk of surface damage or deformation.

CLEAN UP PETROLEUM SPILLS

Gasoline, motor oil, diesel fuel, and other petroleum-based fluids can stain and severely damage asphalt and tar & chip by breaking down the asphalt binder.

If a spill occurs, blot and absorb it immediately using shop rags or old towels, then apply cat litter or a similar oil-absorbing material commonly used for garage or driveway spills to help reduce penetration and staining.

CLEAN UP DEBRIS

Keep asphalt surfaces clean and free of loose gravel, rocks, sticks, and debris.
On asphalt in particular, driving over loose material can gouge or scar the surface, which can loosen the asphalt aggregate and cause surface raveling to begin.

CLEAR SNOW CAREFULLY

When clearing snow with a plow or snow blower, move slowly and carefully, keeping the plow and snow-blower blades slightly elevated so that they do not come in contact with the surface.
This helps prevent scratching, chipping, gouging, or damaging the pavement.

DON’T:

DRIVE ON NEW ASPHALT TOO SOON

Hot mix asphalt is typically installed at approximately 300°F and needs time to cool and harden after installation before it is ready for traffic. Although the surface may appear firm shortly after paving, it remains hot and vulnerable to damage until it has cooled sufficiently.

For this reason, we block off the entrance with high-visibility tape after the work is completed to prevent vehicle traffic. During rolling and compaction, our rollers apply water to the asphalt to help it cool more quickly. Even with this process, the pavement still requires additional time to cool before it can safely support vehicles.

As a general guideline, new asphalt should not be driven on until approximately 7:00 a.m. the morning following installation. Driving on the surface too soon can cause permanent tire impressions, scuffing, indentations, or surface distortion that cannot be corrected once the asphalt hardens.

Pedestrian traffic should also be limited. Do not walk on new asphalt for at least four (4) hours after installation, as foot traffic can leave marks or impressions while the surface is still soft.

These timeframes are general guidelines and may vary depending on weather conditions and site-specific factors. When in doubt, waiting longer is always preferable to risking damage.

MAKE SHARP OR STATIONARY TURNS ON NEW ASPHALT

New asphalt behaves differently than fully cured asphalt pavement. When first installed, asphalt is relatively soft, gradually hardens each day, and can take up to a full year to fully cure and harden. During this early period, the surface is very susceptible to tire marks and scuffing, especially in hot weather when asphalt softens as it absorbs heat due to its black color.

Vehicles are heavy, and their tires are designed to grip asphalt. When extremely sharp or stationary turns are made, something has to give—either the tire or the asphalt itself. On fully hardened asphalt, the tire gives. On new asphalt that is still curing, the asphalt surface gives instead.

It is important to understand the difference between minor tire scuffing, which is normal, to be expected, and nothing to be concerned about, and severe tire scuffing, which is not normal or to be expected and may be something to be concerned about, because they differ in both how they occur and how serious they are.

Minor tire scuffing refers to light, surface-level marks. As vehicles travel over new asphalt, these minor tire marks and light surface scuffs are likely to occur, even with proper driving. They are shallow and cosmetic in nature, with little to no depth, and may result in a change in surface texture or color from glossy black to matte, without impacting asphalt performance or structural integrity. In most cases, these marks will gradually even out with normal traffic and become far less noticeable over the first few months as the asphalt continues to harden.

Severe tire scuffing refers to deep or heavy marks that involve actual movement or deformation of the asphalt surface. If vehicles are driven aggressively and extremely sharp or stationary turns are made on new asphalt, these severe tire marks and surface scuffs can occur. They may include twisted, churned-up, or deformed asphalt, or areas where surface stone has been displaced or torn loose, which may impact surface integrity or pavement performance. Unlike minor tire scuffing, these areas will not gradually even out with normal traffic and may require repair work.

These are common questions our customers have for us when tire scuffing occurs:

Was the asphalt compacted properly?
Yes. It was compacted to proper density using state-of-the-art steel drum vibratory asphalt rollers.

Was the asphalt bad material?
No. We use the same high-quality, VDOT-approved hot-mix asphalt that highways are paved with.

Why didn’t my old asphalt do this?
If sharp or stationary turns were made when it was new, it did. Most people either don’t remember it happening or didn’t make sharp or stationary turns at the time. Older asphalt is fully cured and hardened, which is why it no longer reacts the same way.

Nothing is wrong with the asphalt or how it was installed or compacted—this is simply how asphalt behaves when it is new. There is nothing any paving company can do to prevent tire scuffing on new asphalt, but you can.
Simply do not make extremely sharp turns or turn the steering wheel while stopped. Always keep moving while turning.

Everything described above is a well-documented and common characteristic of new asphalt surfaces. If you google search “tire scuffs on new asphalt,” you will find extensive information confirming this behavior.

DRIVE OVER YOUR ASPHALT EDGES

Driving over asphalt edges is the most common cause of pavement damage we encounter. Even when properly installed and backfilled, asphalt pavement edges are not designed to support vehicle traffic. Driving over an asphalt edge places excessive stress on the pavement and can result in immediate cracking or breakage. For this reason, asphalt edges should never be driven over.

If there is no other option and a crossing must occur, this should only be done after the edge has been properly backfilled to provide support. The edge must be crossed very slowly and perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) so both tires contact the edge at the same time. Crossing an asphalt edge at an angle concentrates loads and significantly increases the risk of cracking or breakage.

Even when an asphalt edge has been properly installed, backfilled and crossed correctly, edge damage can still occur.

OVERLOAD THE PAVEMENT

A pavement’s load-bearing capacity is determined by its base and subgrade support. Overloading pavement beyond its load-bearing capacity can cause cracking, depressions, rutting, or structural failure. This type of damage is structural in nature and can occur when loads exceed what the pavement structure was designed to support.

For general weight limit guidelines, see Frequently Asked Questions:
How much weight will my pavement be able to handle?

REPEATEDLY PARK VEHICLES IN THE SAME SPOT

Repeatedly parking vehicles in the exact same location before asphalt has fully cured and hardened can cause slight depressions to form over time, especially in hot weather. Varying parking positions from day to day, even by just a few inches until the asphalt has fully hardened, helps distribute loads more evenly and reduces this risk.

PLACE CONCENTRATED HEAVY LOADS FOR EXTENDED PERIODS

In construction, these are known as point loads—situations where a lot of weight is concentrated over a very small area. Common examples include motorcycle kickstands, trailer tongue jacks, RV stabilizers, dumpster feet, roll-off containers, storage containers, furniture, planters, equipment, and similar heavy items. Point loads can indent or damage new pavement. Always use plywood or load-spreading pads to distribute the weight over a larger area and reduce the risk of surface damage.

USE HIGH-PSI PRESSURE WASHERS ON ASPHALT

Excessive pressure can dislodge aggregate, loosen surface material, and damage the pavement. Asphalt does not require aggressive pressure cleaning—routine sweeping, blowing, or light rinsing is sufficient, even when preparing the surface for sealcoating.

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